Trem King TK-1
Retro Fit Installation Instructions
The Trem King TK-1 is designed to fit into guitars previously
fitted with
vintage 6 screw or two-post type vibrato system. These instructions
assume that the guitar being retrofitted has a spring cavity
for one of these type vibrato systems. Top routs and Spring
Cavities for these types of vibratos are usually very similar.
NOTE: If building a guitar that is not yet routed for a bridge,
these instructions do not cover the primary routing of the
top rout and spring cavity. Those instructions are readily
available on the web. However, the enclosed instructions will
take you from that point through installation.
Tools needed:
- Philips screwdriver
- Drill
- 1/16” drill bit
- 1/8” extended drill bit – 12 in. long
- Router
- Router Template (not included) – Pocket Rout template
dimensions included on routing diagram. Use 4 1⁄4 in.
by 6 in. x 1⁄4 in. plexiglass for template
material. Drawing shows size of hole to be cut in plexiglass. Mark on template – back
line, front line, center line
- Router bit – 1 inch diameter straight router bit. 3⁄4 inch tall,
1⁄4 inch shaft.
5 pieces 3/8 in. washer with 1⁄4 inch inner diameter to fit over
shaft of router bit. Put a small amount of light grease over the shaft
of the
router bit before putting on washers. Washers will act as template guide.
- Light Grease
- Double sided tape
- Soldering iron and solder
- Hammer
- Small punch
NOTE: Routing of the spring cavity should
be done by a qualified luthier.
Installation:
1. Remove existing vibrato unit including all screws into the body, springs and
spring claw. Plug holes on top of guitar with wood dowels. Use wood glue when
inserting dowels into body. If the existing vibrato was a 6 screw type, plug
the two outside holes with wood dowels. If the existing vibrato was two post
style, pull the inserts out of the body and plug with wood dowels. The dowels
must be even with the top of the guitar body when inserted all the way. Plug
old spring claw screw holes.
2. Take Measurements – Just to be sure...
a. Measure the top rout for the bridge on your guitar. Top rout should be at
least one (1) inch wide by three (3) inches long. Top cavities may vary from
3⁄4 inch to 1 inch
wide by 3 to 3-1/8 inches long. The Trem King should drop right into that hole
on the top of the guitar. Make sure it
does!!!
View of Normal Rout on Top of Guitar:

b. Measure spring cavity on back of guitar. Rout in spring cavity should be at
least 5 in. long.
c. Measure width of Spring Cavity. Most are narrow where the springs are and
are wider where the
bridge comes through the body. The included routing diagram shows the typical
cavity that is 2
1⁄4 in. at the narrow part and 3 1/32 in. at the widest part. Below is
a typical rout on the back of
the guitar.
Front

NOTE: mark a center line in the middle of the 2 1⁄4 in. wide area of the
spring cavity. This line
should correspond with the natural center line of the guitar that runs from the
neck through the body
of your guitar. Use this to line up the Pocket Rout template. The scribed line
does not have to go all
the way down the cavity, only close enough to the area being routed that you
can use it for alignment
with the template.
NOTE: Facing spring cavity on the back of the guitar, ‘Front’ and ‘Back’ indicate:
Front – the edge of the spring cavity closest to the neck
Back – The edge of the spring cavity furthest from the neck
If all is right, you are ready to Rout!
3. Place guitar body face down firmly into routing jig.
4. Put double stick tape on the back of the body around
the area to be routed. Place Pocket Rout Template on back of guitar over spring
cavity. The back edge (marked backline) is placed along the back edge of the
spring cavity (flush). Align the center line on the template with the center
line on your guitar. Be sure template is firmly seated on the guitar body and
that the guitar body is firmly mounted into a jig before attempting to rout.
Pocket Rout Template Template
in Place 
5. Use Router with suggested bit to rout cavity along
front, back and sides of Pocket Rout template. Set depth from router base to
top of router bit to 1⁄2 in.
Trick - Use two pieces of plexiglass (1/4 in. thick) placed on top of each other
to set
the depth for your router bit. Turn router upside down and with the plunge deck
loose,
use two pieces of plexiglass (now 1⁄2 in. thick) to set the depth for the
bit. Tighten
plunge deck.
NOTE: The depth that gets cut into the sides, back and front
of the cavity varies due
to the shape of the Pocket template. More is cut from the back of the cavity
than the
front and only one side is cut. This is planned this way.
6. Remove template, any wood shavings and double stick tape.
7. Place Trem King unit into top of guitar to make sure
it fits and tone block can swing both directions. Remove if all looks good.

8. Place double stick tape on top of guitar around top rout hole.
9. Remove Harness Bar from Trem King and move the ‘d’ and
high ‘e’ saddles
forward to approximately 1⁄4 to 1/3 in. from the front edge of the bridge
plate. (Approximately the same place as the Trem King logo is on the bridge.)
Replace harness bar so that saddles are tight. Use these two saddles to determine
the intonation point.
NOTE: At this point, insert the whammy bar into the
tone block (be sure to remove the protective covering from the bar), making sure
it is all the way down in the hole. Use allen wrench to tighten two (2) set screws
on back of tone block for whammy bar. Tighten to you preference. Also, make sure
the Grip Tip is tight. Check both the rubber tip and the metal end for tightness.
Remove whammy bar.
E and D saddles moved

Harness Bar removed
10. Place Trem King on guitar so that the measurement
from the center of the ‘d’ and ‘e’ saddle
pin to the nut is the correct scale length for your guitar.
11. Measure the distance on the low ‘e’ and
high ‘e’ side
from the nut to the front of the bridge plate. If it is the same, the bridge
is straight.
12. Place a straight edge along the center line of the
guitar down the fret board from the nut to the bridge. The center line of the
Trem King is the center between the ‘d’ and ‘g’ saddles.
Align with the center line of the guitar.
Measure Twice, Cut Once!
13. With bridge on top of guitar and aligned
properly, mark three (3) screw holes on top of guitar with
punch.
14. Remove Trem King and double stick tape.
15. Use 1/16” bit to drill three (3) holes 1/2” (or
less) deep for three (3) #6 woodscrews on top of guitar.
16. Turn guitar over. Drill three
(3) spring claw holes 1⁄2
- 1” deep holes using a 1/8” extended drill bit.
Drill holes approximately 1⁄4 in. from bottom of cavity.
The hole in the middle should line up with the center of the
spring cavity. One hole on either side for the tone block springs
that should line up with the small holes in the tone block
for tone block springs.
NOTE: by using this long drill bit, you get a straighter angle
into the body for
the spring claw screw holes.
17. Install two (2) #8 x 1 1⁄2
in. Button Head philips wood screws with spring claws on them.
One (1) claw for the tone block spring and one (1) claw for
the tension bar spring.
NOTE: If using 10 gauge or less strings,
only one (1) spring claw will be mounted for the tone block
spring and one spring claw for the tension bar. The tone block
spring can be mounted on either the bass or treble side of
the tone block. If using 11 gauge or higher strings, install
two (2) spring claws for the tone block and one (1) for the
tension bar.
Trick: Tighten middle screw and claw
(for tension bar) almost all the way into the body. Leave the
other screw with claw about 1⁄2 in. out
of body. This will make later adjustments easier.
18. Solder Ground wire to spring claw
for tone block. You cannot use the middle spring claw because
it does not ground.
19. Mount Trem King unit to top of
guitar using three (3) #6 x 1 in. countersunk wood screws.
Screws should correspond with the color of your Trem King – chrome,
black, and gold.
20. Press fit tension bar spring into
hole in middle of the tension bar. Make sure the spring fits
snugly into the hole in the tension bar. The leather on the
tension bar should be facing towards to body of the spring.
Trick: Make a small bend with pliers at the tip of the spring that goes into
the
tension bar. Press in for a snug fit. Make sure tension bar does not fall off
easily.
21. Mount tension bar to the middle position spring
claw and pull over tone block letting it rest on the right and left arms mounted
to the bottom of the bridge plate. The leather of the tension bar should rest
on small pieces of leather on the right and left arms.
22. The tone block spring should only be mounted after the low e, a, d and g
strings have been put on.
23. Before stringing instrument, check all other components of guitar. Make sure:
a. All neck bolts are tight
b. Neck is straight
c. Tuning gear are tight – top nut, screw (if any) on back and button
d. Check nut – we recommend Graphtech nut material.
However, high percentage graphite, bone and other materials work well. Inexpensive
nut material tends to not work as good and may cause tuning problems. Most roller
nuts will work fine.
e. String trees –If the headstock angle is not
enough to pull the strings down snug, you will have to use a string tree. If
you must use a string tree, we also recommend Graphtech trees.
24. String guitar, loading strings up through tone block.
Be sure each string comes out between the proper saddles. Put low ‘e’ and
high ‘e’ string on first. Then
continue with a,d,g and b strings.
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